|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
Tripoli (Trablos),
85 kilometers north of Beirut, has a special character all its own.
Thanks to its historical wealth, relaxed lifestyle and thriving business
climate, this is a city where modern and medieval blend easily
into a lively and hospitable metropolis. Known as the capital of the
North, Tripoli is Lebanon’s second largest city.
Forty-five buildings in the city, many dating from
the 14th century, have been registered as historical sites. Twelve
mosques from Mamluke and Ottoman times have survived along with an
equal number of “madrassas” or theological schools.Secular
buildings include the “hammam” or the bathing-
house, which followed the classical pattern of Roman-Byzantine
baths, and the “khan” or caravansary. The souks, together with
the “khans”, |
|
 |
| form an agglomeration of various trades
where tailors, jewelers, perfumers, tanners and soap-makers work in surroundings
that have changed very little over the last 500 years.
Tripoli in History
Habitation of the site of Tripoli goes back
to at least the 14th century B.C., but it wasn't until about the
9th century B.C. that the Phoenicians established a small trading
station there. Later, under the Persians, it was home to a confederation
of the Phoenician city states of Sidon, Tyre and Arados Island.
Built on the trade and invasion route near the Abu Ali River, Tripoli's
strategic position was enhanced by offshore islands, natural ports
and access to the interior.
Under the successors of Alexander the Great during
the Hellenistic period, Tripoli was used as a naval shipyard. There
is also evidence that it enjoyed a period of autonomy at the end
of Seleucid era.
Under Roman rule, starting with the takeover
of the area by Pompey in 64-63 B.C.,
the Romans built several monuments here. The Byzantine city of Tripolis,
which by then extended to the south, was destroyed, along with other
Mediterranean coastal cities, by an earthquake and tidal wave in
551.
|
The octagonal Fatimid construction
in the Citadel |
|
After 635, Tripoli became a commercial
and shipbuilding center under the Omayyads. It achieved semi-independence
under the Fatimid Dynasty when it developed into a center of
learning.
At the beginning of the 12th century the
Crusaders laid siege to the city, finally entering it in 1109.
The conquest caused extensive destruction, including the burning
of Tripoli's famous library, the Dar il-'ilm, with its
thousands of volumes.
During the Crusaders' 180-year rule
the city was the capital of the
"County of Tripoli". But Crusader Tripoli fell in 1289 to the
victorious Mamluke Sultan |
Qalaoun, who ordered the old port city
(today Al-Mina) destroyed and a new built inland near the old
castle. It was at this time that numerous religious and secular
buildings were erected, many of which still survive today.
During the long Turkish Ottoman rule (1516
- 1918) Tripoli retained its prosperity and commercial importance
and in these years more buildings were added to the city's architectural
wealth. |
|
Archeological Excavations
Tripoli has not been extensively excavated because the ancient
site lies buried beneath the modern city of Al-Mina. However,
a few accidental finds are now in museums. Excavations in Al-Mina
revealed part of the ancient southern port quay and a necropolis
from the end of the Hellenistic period. A sounding made in the
Crusader castle uncover Late Bronze Age, Iron Age, Roman, Byzantine
and Fatimid remains. |
|
|
Back
to top |
| S E L
E C T E D S I T E S O F
T R I P O L I
|
The Citadel of Tripoli |
|
1 - The Citadel
Overlooking the city is the imposing Citadel of Tripoli
known as Qal’at Sinjil (Saint Gilles) which has been renovated
and changed many times during its history.
Today the castle’s main features are an octagonal Fatimid constructions
converted to a church by the Crusaders, some Crusader structures
of the 12th-13th centuries, a number of 14th century Mamluke
additions, as well as additions |
made by the Ottomans in the 16th century.
The present state of this huge fortress
(140 meters long and 70 meters wide) is largely the result of
extensive restoration work by Mustafa Barbar Agha, governor
of Tripoli at the beginning of the 19th century. |
|
|
|
|
2 - Church of St. John of the Pilgrims Mount
Significant remains of this Crusader church
were found in the Maronite Cemetery of Saint John about 200 meters
south of the Castle on Abu Samra hill There are two joined chapels,
the larger of which has a semi-circular apse. the smaller one, with
a rectangular apse, was reserved for funerary use. The church was
surrounded by a large Crusader cemetery. |
|
|
|
3 - The Great Mosque
Begun in 1294 and completed in 1315, the Great
Mosque was built on the ruined 12th century Crusader cathedral of
St. Mary of the Tower.
Its large courtyard is surrounded by porticos and a domed and vaulted
prayer hall. Inside, one can still see elements of Western architecture
from the old church, including the northern entrance and the Lombard
style bell tower which was transformed into the minaret.
The many foundation plaques and decrees inscribed
in the great Mosque and its surrounding madrassas not only
inform us about the building but reveal details of the daily life
of the Mamluke period. |
The Great Mosque
|
|
|
|
|
4 - Taynâl Mosque
This important mosque was built in 1336 by
Saif ed-Dine Taynâl on the site of a ruined Crusader Carmelite church.
The adjoining domed mausoleum holds the tomb of the founder. Some
elements of the original structure were re-used in the mosque, for
example, the two rows of granite columns with late Roman capitals
which stand in the middle of the first prayer hall. The entrance
of the second prayer hall is a unique example of the architectural
decoration in Tripoli during the Mamluke era.
5 - Al-Muallaq Mosque
The name means "hanging mosque", possibly
because it is on the second floor.
This small mosque, built in the middle of the 16th century, has
a plain whitewashed interior with steps leading down to an attractive
courtyard garden.
The minaret is octagonal and unadorned.
|
|
|
|
6 - Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque
The beautiful Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque
was built during the first quarter of the 14th century A.D.
This domed structure has a square minaret erected above the
entrance arch and is ornamented with double windows which have
black and white stone arches.
The dark stone portal is decorated with stalactites and the
mihrab is covered with an ornate golden mosaic. |
|
Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque |
|
|
|
|
|
7 - Al-Qartâwiyat Madrassa
The madrassa is known for the fine
workmanship of its ceilings decorated with honey-comb patterns and
stalactites, and its elegant façade of alternate black and white
facings. Built during the first quarter of the 14th century A.D.,
Al-Qartâwiyat is probably Tripoli's most ornate building and the
only one with a prayer hall covered by an oval dome.
8 - Madrassa al Tuwashiyat
Built during the second half of the 15th
century, this structure and its elaborate mausoleum are constructed
of sandstone in decorative black and white patterns.
The portal is higher than the façade of the building and decorated
with shell motifs embellished by radiating zigzag motif, stalactites
and twisted colonettes.
9 - Khanqash
This unique building in Lebanon was constructed
during the second half of the 15th century to house Muslim mystics
or Sufis. It is designed with an open courtyard and pool. The courtyard
is surrounded by small rooms and a raised platform, or iwan, behind
an arch of alternating black and white stones. The arch is supported
by granite columns.
10 - Hammam 'Izz ed-Dîne
This public bathing-house was given to the
city by its Mam-luke governor 'Izz ed-Dîne Aybak. The governor,
who died in 1298, is buried in a mausoleum beside the hammam.
In building these baths, he used choice remains from the Crusader
church and hospice of Saint James. The front portal is decorated
with an inscribed fragment between two Saint-James shells, and the
inner door is surmounted by the pas-chal lamb. The Hammam 'Izz ed-Dîne
was in continual use until recently and it is now under restoration.
11 - Hammam el-Abed (near Khan es-Saboun)
Tripoli's only functioning hammam is Hammam
el-Abed, probably built at the end of the 17th century. It has the
typical pierced domes of Mamluke and Ottoman era public baths. The
interior, with its cushions, central fountain and traditional fittings,
is a living museum.
|
|
|
Back
to top |
The interior of
Hammam Al Jadid |
|
12 - Hammam Al Jadid:
Built around 1740, and called the “New Bath”, this is by far
the largest “hammam” in the city, although it has not
been in operation since the 1970’s, its faded grandeur still
stirs the imagination. |
|
|
|
|
|
13 - Khân Al-Khayyatin
The Khân Al-Khayyatin or Tailors’ Khan, is one
of the oldest in Tripoli, dating to the first half of the 14th century.
It was probably built on the remains
of a Byzantine and Crusader monument in the center of the ancient
commercial suburb which controlled passage over the Abu ‘Ali river.
Thus, this “khan” has a different plan than the
others in the city. The restored structure consists
of a long passageway with tall arches on each side and ten transverse
arches. Just at its western entrance stands a granite column surmounted
by a marble Corinthian capital.
14 - Khân Al-Misriyyîn
The Khân Al-Misriyyîn (Caravansary of the
|
|
Khan Al Khayyatin |
| Egyptians) was probably built in the first
half of the 14th century. The traditional arcaded two-story khan
has an open courtyard with a fountain in the center.
15 - Souk Al-Haraj
A unique sight, this covered 14th century bazaar
has a high vaulted ceiling supported by granite columns which may
have originally been part of Roman or Crusader structures. A total
of 14 granite shafts can be seen along the north, south and east
sides. Today this space is occupied by sellers of floor mats, pillows
and mattresses.
16 - Lions' Tower
While most of the numerous coastal towers
and fortifications which protected Tripoli during Mamluke times
have disappeared or been encroached upon by modern buildings, the
mid-15th century Tower of the Lions is still remarkably preserved.
It was given this name in the 19th century because of the lions
carved in relief that once stood above the entrance. The tower is
actually a fortress two stories high with lofty vaulted ceilings.
the west portal is in the typical Mamluke black and white stone
pattern. From the outside you can see how the builders placed Roman
columns horizontally in the wall reinforcements.
Tripoli Today
Modern Tripoli, which has a population of
about 500,00, is divided into two parts: El-Mina, (the port area
and site of the ancient city) and the town of Tripoli proper.
The Medieval city at the foot of the Crusader castle
is where most of the historical sites are located. Surrounding this
is a modern metropolis which is occupied with commerce, banking
and recreation. The area known as "at-Tall", dominated by an Ottoman
clock tower (built in 1901/2) in the heart of downtown Tripoli,
is the transportation center and terminus for most taxi routes.
When shopping in the old souks or downtown area,
remember that gold is a good buy. Other popular items are Tripoli’s
famous sweets and traditional olive-oil based soap, water pipes
and brass work. Al Mina, the port area, is a good place to find
sea food restaurants and fish markets. The city’s most comfortable
hotels and Western-style restaurants can be found in the beach resorts
south of the city.
Tripoli International Fair
Tripoli has a permanent fairground designed
by the famous brazilian architect, Oscar Niemeyer. Here important
exhibitions, trade fairs and other events regularly take place.
If You Have Time
Offshore Islands: Just offshore is
a string of small islands. the largest, known as the Island of Palm
Trees or Rabbit's Island, is now a nature reserve for green turtles
and rare birds. Declared a protected area by UNESCO in 1992, camping,
fire building or depredation is forbidden. This island also holds
Roman and Crusader remains.
Qalamoun, south of Tripoli, is
known for its brass industry. The roadside is lined with small workshops
and showrooms where brass bowls, candlesticks and other objects
are hammered out in the old tradition.
Notes for Visitors
- A tourism information Office is located on Abdel Hamid Karami
Square.
- Wear comfortable sturdy shoes for walking around the old town
and the souks.
Women should be prepared with head scarves if they wish to
visit mosques.
- Although some of the monuments are kept locked, keys can usually
be obtained
from a nearby shop.
|
|
|
|
