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The Bride of the Beqaa
A red-roofed town set among the eastern foothills
of Mount Sannine, Zahlé enjoys a prime location in the Beqaa valley.
Snowcapped mountains tower above it in winter, while in summer its
945-meter elevation keeps the air light and dry.
The city center spreads along both banks of the
Bardouni River, with the older section of town on the upper elevations
of the west bank and the shopping district on the east bank.
At the northern end of town is the Bardouni river valley known as
Wadi el-Aarayesh (Grape Vine Valley) – the site of Zahlé's famous
outdoor restaurants. Zahlé styles itself "The City of Wine and
Poetry", and with good reason. In this century alone some 50 poets
and writers were born here |
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and almost as many excellent wines and
araks have been produced in the area.
The romance of wine and poetry is balanced by Zahlé's
more businesslike position as the administrative and commercial capital
of the Beqaa valley (42.27% of Lebanon's territory) as well as its
rank as the country's third largest city (population 150,000).
Zahlé is also an agricultural town which produces vegetables, fruit,
grains and most importantly, grapes.
Tucked away from Lebanon's busy coastal centers,
the people of Zahlé have developed their own brand of individualism
and way of doing things. Even their spoken Arabic has a particular
flair. The city's reputation for intellectual vigor comes from a long
line of writers, thinkers and poets who have contributed to Lebanon's
cultural and political scene.
Zahlé in History
Zahlé was founded about 300 years ago in
an area whose past reaches back some five millennia. In the early
18th century the new town was divided into three separate quarters,
each of which had its own governor.
The city enjoyed a brief period as the region's
first independent state in the 19th century when it had its own
flag and anthem.
Zahlé was burned in 1777 and 1791, and it was
burned and plundered in 1860.
But during the rule of the Mutasarrifiah, Zahlé began to regain
its prosperity. The railroad line which came through in 1885 improved
commerce and the town became the internal "port" of the Beqaa and
Syria. It was also the center of agriculture and trade between Beirut
and Damascus, Mosul and Baghdad. Considered the birthplace of the
Lebanese army, Zahlé has played a major role in the political life
of the country.
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Zahlé's Bardouni Restaurants
The Bardouni is a river that flows out of Mount
Sannine and down through Zahlé. It is also a name synonymous with
Lebanon's famous mezze and the delights of outdoor dining.
The Bardouni restaurant tradition began over a
hundred years ago with a few simple riverside cafes. Today it is a
virtual bazaar of tree-shaded eating places known as "casinos," every
one more inviting than the next. Not surprisingly, competition is
fierce, so each establishment outdoes itself with fountains, pools,
and cooling shade to tempt potential customers.
Here you can enjoy the traditional Lebanese |
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A Bardouni restaurant |
| mezze as it is served nowhere else. To add
to the sense of timelessness, delicious mountain bread is baked before
your eyes and a man in baggy trousers and fez is on hand to pour Lebanese
coffee. He can also provide diners with a hubble-bubble (water pipe).
On the cliffs above the Bardouni are the restaurants of Kaa el Reem,
also known for their excellent food and atmosphere. |
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Ksara Winery |
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Wine and Arak
Zahlé's association with the grape is pervasive,
for it lies at the heart of an area that has been making wine
since early antiquity. At the city's southern entrance the statue
of a graceful female personifies wine and poetry, but you don't
have to look far to see evidence of the real thing. The hills
north of town with names like Wadi Hadi, Harqat, Bir Ghazour
and Tell Zeina are covered with the neat rows of vineyards that
supply Zahle's wine and arak industries.
Many of the wines have been formally recognized abroad for their
fine quality–equal to some of the |
| best in Europe. A tour of Zahlé's Ksara
winery is a good way to see how wine and arak are made. Of special
interest here are the extensive underground caves built around
a natural grotto known and enlarged by the Romans. |
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The Monastery of Our Lady of Najat
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Local Celebrations
Each year between the 10th and 20th of September
Zahlé mounts its week-long " Festival of the Vine", a
celebration shared with the city's " Flower Festival".
In a carnival-like atmosphere "Miss Vine" is elected and cars
are decorated with flowers representing national symbols.
Zahlé is also famous for its Corpus-Christi
festival which dates back to 1825 when the town was spared the
ravages of a contagious disease. Corpus-Christi is celebrated
on the first Thursday of June with a torch-light parade held
on the eve of the festival. |
| The next morning a mass takes place at
Our Lady of Najat Church, followed by a procession of
townspeople carrying the "Holy Bread" through the streets. |
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W H A T
T O S E E I N Z A H L E
The Geha House
A good example of Zahlé's local architecture
is the restored Geha House in the old part of town. Although
this is a private home, one can easily appreciate its courtyard, garden
and arched upper galleries – all typical of 17th century architecture.
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An old underground tunnel 1,400 meters long leads
from the house to the church of St. Elias (Al-Tuwak). Built
by Sheikh Khalil Geha in the early 17th century, today the seventh
generation of the Geha family resides in this 24-room dwelling.
Other private residences in the same area
are the lovely al-Hindi, Youssef Azar and Wadih Skaf houses.
These are several hundred years old and also designed with arcades
and walled gardens. |
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The Geha Residence |
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Old Serail (The municipality)
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The Serail
The restored Serail or government house in
the old part of town dates from 1885. This beautiful building,
whose architecture reflects the European and Arab influences
of the Ottoman period, will soon house the offices of the municipality
and a museum illustrating Zahlé's history. |
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At the start of the 20th century
Zahle began building hotels to serve its budding tourist and summer
resort trade. Although the "Sohat" (health) Hotel built in 1878 has
been demolished, three establishments from this era can still be seen:
the Hotel America, the Hotel Akl and the Hotel Kadri (undergoing
restoration).
The Kadri, built in 1906, has seen its share of
history. The hotel was taken over by the Turkish army in 1914 and
used as headquarters and a hospital during World War I.
It was from the Kadri as well that in 1920 the French Mandate authorities
announced annexation |
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Hotel America in Zahlé |
| of the judiciary areas which would give "Greater
Lebanon" its present-day borders.
The Souk al-Blatt,
or "tiled market" is a market street leading to one of the oldest
parts of the city. A large part of Zahle's history was written in
this souk, where in former times travelers to and from Syria, Baghdad
and Palestine bought and sold their goods. A project is planned
to restore the street and make it a center for crafts and other
traditional activities.
Housh El-Zarani
Housh El-Zarani is located near the post
office on the east side of the river. In past centuries this housh,
or market area, was a conglomerate of khans (caravansaries),
craft center and shops. Here shoemakers, woodworkers weavers, copper
workers and saddle makers plied their trades. It was also an important
commercial center where vendors sold agricultural and industrial
products.
Many of the old buildings, embellished by carved
ceilings, vaulted interiors and decorated façades, still stand.
Today these structures are somewhat obscured by modern shopfronts,
but projects are afoot to restore the area. In the meantime you
can still discover a taste of old Zahlé here.
Sayedit Zalzaly
Sayedit Zalzaly is Zahlé's oldest church.
Built in 1700, it originally stood at the center of the city.
The Church of St. Elias
The Church of St. Elias is the second church
built in Zahlé (1720). This impressive structure is also known as
Al-Moukhallasiah.
The Monastery of Our Lady of Najat
The Monastery (1720) has the
largest bell tower in Lebanon. The monastery is known as well for
a beautiful icon of the Virgin Mary, a gift from the King of Prussia.
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Monastery of Saint Elias at-Tuwak
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The Monastery of Saint Elias at-Tuwak,
which dates to 1755, was renovated in 1880 after a fire.
Today it remains one of Zahlés most venerable monuments.
Tell Shiha Hospital
The landmark Tell Shiha Hospital, with
its red tile roof, was opened in 1948. Located on a high hill
of the same name, this site is a good spot for photographs.
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Our Lady of Zahle and the Beqaa
For the most spectacular view, go to the 54-meter-high
hill-top tower of Our Lady of Zahle and the Beqaa located east of
town. here an elevator takes you up to a viewing platform overlooking
the city and the extending plain.
The structure is crowned with a ten-meter-high bronze statue of
the Virgin, the work of the Italian artist, Pierroti. The base houses
a small chapel seating about 100 people.
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Our Lady of Zahle
and the Beqaa |
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The Zahlé area has some scattered ancient remains indicating a
history going back at least to the Bronze Age (1200 - 3000 B.C.).
You can see cave tombs in the cliffs of the Wadi el-Aarayesh, while
Byzantine, Roman and Canaanite sarcophagi and ancient pottery sherds
have been found in the hills around the city.
Ameneties
All amenities are available in Zahlé, which has
plenty of good shopping and souvenir shops. There are 12 working
hotels, numerous restaurants and cafés, plus recreational centers,
night clubs and cinemas. Sixteen banks do business in this commercial
center in addition to insurance and currency exchange companies.
Zahlé's Tourism Office, a part of the Ministry
of Tourism, has offices on the third floor of the Chamber of Commerce,
Industry and Agriculture building.
Fifty-four kilometers separate Beirut from Zahlé
going via Sofar and Chtaura.
A slightly longer route is by way of Dhour ech-Choueir in Mount
Lebanon. Both roads bring you to the south end of the town.
I N T H E
A R E A
Karak (Noah's Tomb)
One kilometer beyond Zahle is the 'tomb
of Noah" found in the village mosque. Although Noah's tomb is 42
meters long and 2.5 meters wide, tradition says that he still had
to be buried with his knees bent. There is an ancient Arabic inscriptions
on the walls of the mosque, which was apparently constructed of
reused Roman stones.
Furzol
In nearby Furzol you can see the scant remains
of a Roman temple just off the central roundabout. Beyond the upper
end of the town is the Wadi el-Habis
(Valley of the Hermit) with tombs and rock-cut sanctuaries from
Roman and Byzantine times. A fascinating place to explore, hickers
can also venture up the rocks above the site. At the base of the
caves is a café with paved terraces.
Niha
Located in Niha village, this restored temple
of the Syro-Phoenician god Hadaranes is imposing in its size and
beauty. A much smaller temple nearby, perhaps dedicated to a divinity
related to water, has not been restored.
Upper temples: From Niha a steep rural
roadway, usually traveled by foot, takes you up 300 meters to Husn
Niha, or the "fortress of Niha". Here you will find two partially
preserved Roman temples.
Tannayal
This estate, now a farm, is located on the
main road just south of Chtaura and is identified by a large sign.
A visit to Tannayal, owned by the Jesuit fathers since 1860, is
a good introduction to agriculture in the Beqaa valley. In addition
to the usual farm animals you can see a large collection of exotic
fowl including peacock and doves.
A teaching facility for the Faculty of Agriculture
at Saint Joseph University, Tannayel also has vineyards and fruit
orchards. An artificial lake adds to the beauty of the site. Locally
produced dairy products are for sale here too.
Kfar Zabad and Ain Kfar Zabad
A steep footpath from this village leads
to the remains of two Roman temples located on a high hill. Northeast
of the lower temple is a rock-cut relief of Venus locally known
as "Bint el Malik" or the king's daughter.
For those interested in spelunking, a beautiful
little cave, explored to 125 meters, can be entered with the use
of ropes. Drive about a kilometer along a dirt road from Kfar Zabad
towards the Anti-Lebanon mountains. A mountain footpath (15 minutes)
brings you to the entrance.
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